Review: Roots Restaurant

I was thrilled to be invited to Roots for dinner last night, especially as they earned their position as one of the countries top ten restaurants two years in a row.

We made a reservation for 19h30, and all six of us arrived at around seven so that we could have a drink in the bar opposite the restaurant before beginning our gourmet extravaganza.  I was a little annoyed after sitting down for 10 minutes and no one came in to offer us a drink.  I naturally got up and walked into the restaurant to request some service.  After driving down a dirt road for 10 minutes in the pitch black of night, I needed a drink desperately. 

Other than the lack of service when we first arrived, the rest of the evenings service was fantastic – every little detail was attended to.  I could not sit down and remove my jacket on my own, because a friendly waiter was always right behind me to assist in taking off my jacket and pulling my seat out for me to sit down.  

There was no a la carte menu – and as far as I can gather, there never is.  It’s always a set menu of 6 courses, with the option of having wine “teasers” with each course, paired by the evenings wine steward, Shaun Marais.  

The menu for the evening was as follows, with my opinion under each:

1.    Butternut Air with toasted pumpkin

Absolutely delicious – as the name describes, it was a very light and airy butternut soup, served with toasted pumpkin seeds

2.    Malay pickled Kingklip, cucumber & aioli

Pickled fish is not my favourite, so this didn’t go down too well.  I also found this to be a little dry, as did the rest of the table.  Perhaps more aioli would have rectified this?  The cucumber tasted more like a ceviche, and had more seafood flavours than the Kingklip itself.

3.    Tempura Lobster with tomato jam & salsa

The texture of the lobster was fantastic, yet the batter seemed to kill the delicate flavour of the lobster.  Great tasting dish none the less.

4.    Crispy Duck Leg, ginger risotto & pak choy

I LOVE duck – its right up there with foie gras and caviar for me!  The duck was very tasty, however lacked the crispyness as suggested in the name of this dish.   The risotto was cooked to perfection, with just the right amount of ginger – a winner.  The wine paired with this dish was completely off though – Zorgvliet Cabernet Sauvignon (2005) completely overpowered this dish.

5.    Lamb Shoulder, baby vegetables, wild eryngii & gnocchi

Although beautifully presented, I found this dish to be very mediocre.

6.    Black Pepper Brulee, with strawberry sorbet & caramel

A delicious combination of flavours in this dessert, but again, rather mediocre.   The Weltevrede “Ouma Se Wyn” that was served with the dessert is a delightful dessert wine.  One of the other guests suggested a squeeze of lemon juice into it, which I would usually say is sacrilege, but was actually a really nice way to balance the sweetness without destroying the flavours of the wine.

For the six of us, all of whom chose to go with the wine “teasers” with each course, the bill came to just over R5,000.  Granted we ordered an extra two bottles of wine and numerous Patrones, I find this rather pricey.

All in all, I can see that Roots has the potential to be in the countries top ten, but I’m assuming that on the night we went, they were not on top form.   One of our guests said that he frequents Roots regularly and that our night was not one of the better nights that he has experienced. 

I will definitely go back to give them another go – it’s a rarity in Johannesburg to be able to experience true gourmet food, unlike Cape Town where the competition in the fine dining arena is a lot more fierce. 

http://www.forumhomini.com/roots/roots_restaurant.html