Review: Roots Restaurant

I was thrilled to be invited to Roots for dinner last night, especially as they earned their position as one of the countries top ten restaurants two years in a row.

We made a reservation for 19h30, and all six of us arrived at around seven so that we could have a drink in the bar opposite the restaurant before beginning our gourmet extravaganza.  I was a little annoyed after sitting down for 10 minutes and no one came in to offer us a drink.  I naturally got up and walked into the restaurant to request some service.  After driving down a dirt road for 10 minutes in the pitch black of night, I needed a drink desperately. 

Other than the lack of service when we first arrived, the rest of the evenings service was fantastic – every little detail was attended to.  I could not sit down and remove my jacket on my own, because a friendly waiter was always right behind me to assist in taking off my jacket and pulling my seat out for me to sit down.  

There was no a la carte menu – and as far as I can gather, there never is.  It’s always a set menu of 6 courses, with the option of having wine “teasers” with each course, paired by the evenings wine steward, Shaun Marais.  

The menu for the evening was as follows, with my opinion under each:

1.    Butternut Air with toasted pumpkin

Absolutely delicious – as the name describes, it was a very light and airy butternut soup, served with toasted pumpkin seeds

2.    Malay pickled Kingklip, cucumber & aioli

Pickled fish is not my favourite, so this didn’t go down too well.  I also found this to be a little dry, as did the rest of the table.  Perhaps more aioli would have rectified this?  The cucumber tasted more like a ceviche, and had more seafood flavours than the Kingklip itself.

3.    Tempura Lobster with tomato jam & salsa

The texture of the lobster was fantastic, yet the batter seemed to kill the delicate flavour of the lobster.  Great tasting dish none the less.

4.    Crispy Duck Leg, ginger risotto & pak choy

I LOVE duck – its right up there with foie gras and caviar for me!  The duck was very tasty, however lacked the crispyness as suggested in the name of this dish.   The risotto was cooked to perfection, with just the right amount of ginger – a winner.  The wine paired with this dish was completely off though – Zorgvliet Cabernet Sauvignon (2005) completely overpowered this dish.

5.    Lamb Shoulder, baby vegetables, wild eryngii & gnocchi

Although beautifully presented, I found this dish to be very mediocre.

6.    Black Pepper Brulee, with strawberry sorbet & caramel

A delicious combination of flavours in this dessert, but again, rather mediocre.   The Weltevrede “Ouma Se Wyn” that was served with the dessert is a delightful dessert wine.  One of the other guests suggested a squeeze of lemon juice into it, which I would usually say is sacrilege, but was actually a really nice way to balance the sweetness without destroying the flavours of the wine.

For the six of us, all of whom chose to go with the wine “teasers” with each course, the bill came to just over R5,000.  Granted we ordered an extra two bottles of wine and numerous Patrones, I find this rather pricey.

All in all, I can see that Roots has the potential to be in the countries top ten, but I’m assuming that on the night we went, they were not on top form.   One of our guests said that he frequents Roots regularly and that our night was not one of the better nights that he has experienced. 

I will definitely go back to give them another go – it’s a rarity in Johannesburg to be able to experience true gourmet food, unlike Cape Town where the competition in the fine dining arena is a lot more fierce. 

http://www.forumhomini.com/roots/roots_restaurant.html

Review: Duchess of Wisbeach

Review: Duchess of Wisbeach

Me and my good friend were on a mission to ensure that we visited all the new restaurants that have popped up over the last year in Cape Town, one of them being the Duchess of Wisbeach in Sea Point, but could never get a reservation – which I think is normally a good thing.  For a restaurant to be fully booked from day one is quite a feather in ones hat!

We made an early booking for 7pm, so where the first to arrive.  We sat at the bar for a drink first, but there was no barman on duty, so the chef was called out of the kitchen to make our cocktails.  It was their signature cocktail (I’m assuming, with it being called the Duchess of Wisbeach Cocktail) and was so delicious it was consumed within a few sips!

While sitting at the quaint little bar staring into the stuffed cows head above us, the manager walked in from outside and greeted by the owner with “where the F*&$ have you been” on the top of her voice – I almost fell off my chair!  She continued with her abusive banter completely oblivious to the fact that we were sitting there.  We promptly decided to go to our table for our long awaited catch up and to see the much anticipated menu. 

The tables are really close together, so this is not the sort of place to go if you want to have a quiet and discreet evening.  The service was just the way I like it – friendly, confident and enthusiastic, without any pretences. 

The menu is far from interesting, with things like cottage pie (R90!!) and fish and chips (??) on offer on the very small menu.

We ordered the fish sticks and the gorgonzola stuffed baby onions wrapped in pancetta with fresh rocket for starters, which were both very average. 

For mains we had fillet with béarnaise and chips and the line fish of the day, sole with Dauphinoise potatoes.  Veggies are an optional extra, and come in the form of spinach with parmesan or gem squash.  The fillet was a little over cooked and very dry, which would have been compensated for by the béarnaise, had there been enough of it.  The sole was delicious, but a bit on the salty side, and the Dauphinoise potatoes were absolutely divine.

We decided to pass on the desserts, with home made ice cream being the waitresses recommendation.  I asked if they had an ice cream machine, which they didn’t, so not sure if it was “bought-in-home-made ice cream” or semifreddo – Ill forgive them for not knowing the difference.

The manager and service was the highlight of the evening, as well as the décor – the screaming owner and below average food their downfall.  I love dogs, so didn’t mind them floating around the restaurant, but do understand that some may find it a little strange.

If you wanting a Gordon Ramsay style evening of entertainment, the Duchess of Wisbeach is worth a visit (and I’m not referring to Gordons food).  If your looking for a quiet evening with a gourmet offering, then I would suggest somewhere else.

The Duchess of Wisbeach – 021 434 1525

http://www.eatout.co.za/restaurants/5960/cape-town/international/the-duchess-of-wisbeach%C2%A0

Review: Five Flies Restaurant

You’ve got to love winters in Cape Town if your a foodie.  All of the top restaurants jump on the winter specials band wagon with deals that are well worth taking advantage of. 

I went to Five Flies last night for the first time in almost two years, which is disgraceful considering it’s one of my all time favourites in Slaapstad. 

Their 2 course menu which is usually R185 is reduced to R125, and the 3 course from R235 to a measly R150, and both include a glass of wine - you can’t even go to the Spur for a 3 course and glass of wine for R150!! 

I worked with the infamous Alex Van Ness at Five Flies many moons ago, where I learnt some really invaluable lessons in running a fine dining establishment from the master himself.

The service as usual was fantastic.  I love it when waiters can balance the art of being professional yet still be themselves, without the pretentiousness often found with fine-dining restaurant staff.  The emphasis at Five Flies has always been on team work among staff, so you will often have different waiters serving your drinks and food, therefore never waiting too long for anything. 

The fact that the menu has not changed much over the last decade speaks for itself - “if it aint broke, then don’t fix it!”

I had the foie gras for a starter (there is a supplement charge for certain things on the menu, which your waiter explains before you order and is quite self explanatory on the menu itself) which was a decent portion and cooked to perfection.  Still nice and pink on the inside, served on a corn fritter, roasted baby beetroot and a balsamic syrup.

For mains I ordered the Springbok Wellington with mushroom duxelle, roasted butternut and foie gras, with a truffle jus!! Oh so yummy, and not at all dry as one could expect from venison done in this style.  My guests had the mussels and smoked salmon for starters, followed by the duck and the lamb shank special.  All delicious, except for the confit duck which was a bit over cooked.  We informed the manager who promptly took it off the bill without a second thought!

The Five Flies is located on Keerom street, right opposite the legal fraternity of Cape Town, and is well worth a visit, even if just to experience the beautiful building in which it resides for an after work cocktail.  If you have always dreamed of marrying an attorney or a judge, pop in after work and you may well meet your match!

Our bill for three people, two of whom had a two course meal, and one a three course, plus extra glasses of wine all round, came to R725 including a generous tip.  Seriously good value for money!!

Trading Hours:

Lunch: Monday to Friday 

12H00 - 15H00

Dinner: Monday to Sunday

18H00 to 23H00

021 424 4442 - booking essential 

JHB Restaurants vs CT Restaurants

 To me, Johannesburg is the city of milk and honey in South Africa.

It amazes me to see how much money is invested in restaurants here, especially in the décor.  Yet the menu pricing in Johannesburg’s restaurants seems to be very similar, if not cheaper than that of Cape Towns.  Read on and you may agree with my sentiments as to why I say this…

I went to Orient Restaurant in Melrose Arch a few nights ago, and felt like I could have been in a leading London restaurant - the décor was amazing!  Upon our arrival, we were greeted by very friendly and welcoming staff, who could not help themselves in commenting on our outfits – we had just come from a black tie launch of a new TV series, The A List (launching on SABC3).  We played it very cool, as if this was the way we always dressed when eating out… ;)

We sat downstairs in the very funky bar area that also served as the smoking area for diners.  I must have looked like a lost tourist the way I inspected the room before being seated.  What really amazed me was the bathrooms; unisex, each fitted with its own basin, mirror and mini flat screen TV!  Never to be bored on the toilet again…

The menu was quite vast with options, all with of Asian decent, and reasonably priced.  I could not help comparing it to my favourite Cape Town restaurant, Kitima in Hout Bay.  Kitima though, has a lot more offering in terms of menu choices, and in my opinion, a much better menu, all be it slightly more expensive. 

We started off with a dim sum platter, which was R98, and consisted of a variety of three, totaling 6 pieces.  I was not impressed by the presentation or the texture of the rice paper, which seemed over cooked and gooey. It was presented in a bamboo basket with slices of carrot under the dim sum, which was tastier than the dim sum itself. 

We decided to go with a variety of starters as apposed to a main meal, so this may not be a fair review of the entire menu – but as I have said before: this is more my opinion based on my experience than a restaurant review.  The prawn tempura looked really messy when presented to us, and definitely could have been cooked a little longer.  The tempura batter was not crispy and was still white in colour.  We ordered quite a selection, which was accompanied by lots of bubbly, so you will forgive me if I cannot remember the rest of what we ordered.  For dessert, we shared the ginger crème brulee and the banana and chocolate spring rolls – both very average.

I would like to leave you with a question and open this to a debate – is eating out more about the décor and the vibe for you, or is it about food?  I can classify certain restaurants that I would go to purely for the vibe and forgive the average food offerings, and I have restaurants that I frequent were a minimal amount is spent on décor, but the food is phenomenal!  I have not eaten out enough in Joeys to pass an opinion on which city has the better food offering, but my gut is telling me so far that it is Cape Town – what are your thoughts??

Review: Waterkloof Restaurant

WOW - what an amazing way to spend a Sunday afternoon! Unbelievably beautiful setting, amazing food, friendly and efficient service, great company and lots of laughter brought on by lots of fantastic wine!

Waterkloof wine estate and restaurant is tucked away in a hidden ravine on the slopes of Somerset West, with the most spectacular views over False Bay.

We arrived fairly early, as the only time available when making our booking was at 12h30, and were greeted in the parking lot by the most well spoken, well mannered and bubbly car guard I have ever seen. What a great first impression!

I’m not going to rant on about the amazing restaurant layout and decor (you can go to the website gallery and have a look - www.waterkloofwines.com), because the food and service deserve more of the glory - I could not fault a thing... well almost.

Its becoming a bit rehearsed now in most restaurants when the waiter is taught to up-sell by asking “would you like still or sparkling water for the table”, which is obviously then added to your bill. At Waterkloof, they offer FREE still or sparkling water along with the hot fresh bread rolls as you are seated - how refreshing! Before deciding which wine to order (to be honest, I was not familiar with Waterkloof wines at all), I asked for a taster of the Circle of LIfe, which was recommended to me by a friend. The waiter then proceeded to give us tasters of ALL the white wines on the menu (6 in total if I’m not mistaken) to help us decide on which we preferred before ordering the bottle. I know, it sounds a little unreal doesn’t it. We had been there for 10 minutes, had the equivalent to one and a half glasses of wine, 2 bread rolls, a glass of mineral water, and had yet to be charged for anything!

We decided on the chardonnay, which was unwooded and deliciously creamy, yet light. It was decanted for us at the table and put on a bowl of crushed ice.

The menu is only made up of 5 starters and 7 mains, so you would think it would be a quick order, but with everything sounding so appealing, it wasn’t that quick at all.

We each decided to choose something different and share in order to plow our way through as much of the menu as possible.

I went with the Oyster Mushrooms with rocket and crispy soft boiled egg (R70) for a starter, and the Quail with cream spinach, horse radish devilled quail egg and root vegetables (R140) for my main.

Vikki decided on the Confit Duck Leg in pistachio crust, sultana leather and consomme gel (R70) to start and the Glazed Pork Belly with poached golden delicious apple, fresh black figs and beetroot ((R135) for her entree. Everything was truly superb, except for the ‘consomme gel’ that accompanied Vikki’s duck starter, which was a little insipid. As difficult as it was to choose, my favourite would be the Glazed Pork Belly - to die for doll!

The amuse bouche before the meal was a pork pate with beetroot puree, which was amazing! In between each course, they served a small pana cotta with earl grey jelly and dried fruit, which was a little strange but a very welcomed surprise - not quite a palate cleanser, not quite a dessert, but tasty none the less.

For dessert, we came to the conclusion that the chef does not have a sweet tooth. Although beautifully presented, everything from the quince dessert that Vikki ordered to the chocolate fondant that I ordered, seemed to lack the sweetness you would expect from a dessert. Now I know that quinces are generally quite bitter, but served with a ginger ice cream which was also not very sweet (but very gingery), it all seemed a little to tart for our liking.

We finished off with a cheese plate which was served with little cubes of what tasted like quince jelly and fresh toasted bread. To be honest, I have had better cheese plates - no gorgonzola, no sweet marmalades or fruit to accompany the cheese selection - but thats just my personal preference.

All in all, I would highly recommend Waterkloof Restaurant, and look forward to visiting again, and again, and again.

Tel: 021 858 1292

Open Monday to Saturday, lunch and dinner.

Sunday, lunch only.

Review: The Towers Restaurant

I was lucky enough to be invited to dinner by the fabulous Bianca Coleman (aka Queen Bee) at The Towers Restaurant at the Crystal Towers Hotel & Spa last night. We arrived just after 19h00 with Bianca directing me towards the valet parking, to which I refused due to the embarrassing state of my car, and proceeded to the underground parking instead.

With Crystal Towers Hotel & Spa being apart of the African Pride group, it was no surprise that the décor was breathtaking. I’m always a sucker for fibre optic lighting, especially when there are curtains of them, and the carpet studded with little shining lights had me on all fours (shut up!!) investigating the reality of what I saw – the entire reception area is absolutely stunning!

We were escorted through the very empty restaurant (it was a Monday night, and we were early) to our table. There were quite a few different seating areas, including a private dining room. Our table was an intimate table for two, romantically lit by only one candle, which would have been perfect if you were having a bad hair day, but not so perfect for trying to read the menu.

One of the attentive waiters picked up that we were struggling to see and brought us a lamp to shine some light on the subject, in this case the menu.

Now being a chef and having worked in numerous restaurants for the better part of my life, I do try very hard not to be too critical, especially if I am an invited guest. But as I am giving an honest review from my perspective, and this is not going into any publications, I owe it to all of you (assuming anyone is actually reading my blogs – one must be optimistic!) to portray the restaurant from my experience.

From the decent selection on the menu, I decided to go for the Seafood Bouillabaisse as a starter, and the Sole for my mains. Bianca opted for the Steak Tartar, followed by the Veal wrapped in pancetta for her entrée. On both occasions, Bianca’s choices won hands down.

My Bouillabaisse tasted like it was made with canned tomato and onion, seriously lacking some fresh herbs and depth of the true French original. It was topped with a stale bread stick – needless to say I didn’t finish my starter. The steak tartar on the other hand was amazing! Served in three neat tiaans, all with different toppings: sour cream, a raw quail egg and micro herbs. The flavour of the beef was not overpowered by any of its accompliments, the texture perfect and the meat of great quality. I was selfishly hoping that Bianca would not like it so that I could finish it off for her – no chance of that!

My main course of Sole with Norwegian Salmon (already an odd combination), sweet potato and a caviar and lemon grass foam was beautifully presented and a really decent sized portion. However, if you are going to follow the craze of foams, you need to do it properly, or don’t bother. The lemon flovoured milk, that I’m assuming was suppose to be the foam, with a little dollop of fish roe (not caviar) was completely lost with this dish. I could not tell the sole apart from the salmon – it tasted like a whole new breed of fish altogether. Ok, I’m probably being over critical here, but I am being honest!

Again, Bianca’s entrée was a lot more appealing. Her veal wrapped in pancetta was served on a gorgeous rich mushroom ragout of sorts, which had a slight undertone of truffles – yum! My only negative remark would be that the pancetta slightly over powered the flavour of the veal.

I failed to mention earlier that the amuse bouche was a piece of salmon nigiri, and the palate cleanser was a chilli and lime sorbet. The homemade bread on the table was straight out of the oven and delicious!

Overall, the company and the setting was amazing, the service attentive, and the food very mediocre. As I was not paying, I didn’t get to see the final bill, but I think it came to around R750, which was for two people having a two course meal with two bottles of wine and a bottle of mineral water.